Wednesday night.

You may be white-knuckling it over the last game of a very tense World Series.

Or you may be relaxed, joyful even, at the arrival of your loup de mer.

At Les Coulisses, the enchanting space you'll go to for coastal Mediterranean food before, during and after shows at Downtown's Belasco Theater. It opens Wednesday. Here's the slideshow.

Make your way through the private Hill Street entrance and into a sexy, two-story salon in bordello red that looks like the lobby of a Parisian playhouse. You'll find an attractive surplus of antique mirrors and portraits on the walls as you pause at the tufted bar to order some Syrah for you and a date. There will be an oversize golden chair over your head. Don't worry about that.

You may opt for a table down here. But there are plush banquettes all along the mezzanine where you'll surely be more comfortable enjoying your seasonal, coastal European dishes from former Maré chef Frances Li.

Perhaps you'll start with a selection of cured meats before dividing your attentions among the spiced Moroccan chicken tagine, fruit de mer and loup des mer. Did that rhyme?

And before your show gets underway, you'll linger just long enough to entertain a dessert of poached pears with pistachio ice cream and a latte.

For those about to poach pears, we salute you.