This week, you'll overdo it on the oysters, pasta and poblano-chili-and-pickle-juice cocktails.

It's what J. Gold would've wanted, so damn right you will.

The perfect place to begin: Hippo, a convivial new Highland Park restaurant now open from James Beard Award-strapped former Mozza chef Matt Molina with partners from Everson Royce and Silverlake Wine.

Hippo is a warm, attractive dining room centered on an open kitchen and a joyous orange flower mural below bare trussed lumber that you'll find stashed behind Triple Beam Pizza. It's also a large, semi-aquatic African mammal counted among the world's most dangerous. They really have so much in common.

Bring a date. Come with friends. Do whatever you need to do to make it here. Assume a four-top on the floor or drape yourselves all over the green banquettes on the side. Ask for an Old Man Brunk with rye, poblano, cynar, vermouth and pickle brine before opening up to David Rosoff's wine proposals.

Either way, a memorable, contrary to trends, in no way extortionate dinner should follow. One that may involve elements like oysters with gazpacho granita, pork ribs, almond wood-grilled sirloin and guinea hen ravioli with Sauternes and cocoa.

And probably should when you think about it.