It’s not just that you’ve missed Mark Peel’s fried chicken.

You’ve also missed Mark Peel. He’s a good guy. He makes you fried chicken.

And you’re about to get caught up at Bombo, a gleaming new Downtown counter at Grand Central Market that’s opening Thursday. (See the slideshow and the menu.)

What you’ve got here is a major commitment to stainless steel and shellfish, prominently centered between Eggslut and Wexler’s Deli. In the middle, one of LA’s finest in a very exposed, very active kitchen, preparing you broth-y seafood dishes (and... other stuff, some of which is fried) in counter-side steam kettles. It’s like watching a cooking show crossed with The Ring. That was a reference to a person coming out of the television and into reality.

First peruse the fresh fish and shellfish case. You might want to take something home later. Then take a counter seat and watch Peel tip one of those kettles to fill bowls with steamed clams and pork sausage in lobster broth, or he’ll slip some steamed mussels on egg pappardelle. There’s also that fried chicken, North African drumsticks, and fish and steak-fry chips, too. Chips in British.

And soon, you’ll have breakfast, and beer and wine.

Beer and fried chicken. Could work.