Here’s how Josef Centeno thinks a good fall day should go for you now:

8am: Fried-bologna sandwich and Stumptown at Pete’s.

Noon: BLTs with work friends, also at Pete’s.

8pm: Moules-frites and a Caesar at... wait for it...

Pete’s Los Angeles, the spiffed-up new version of trusty old Pete’s Cafe under Bäco Mercat/Bar Amá/Orsa & Winston chef Josef Centeno, now soft-open for breakfast and dinner. (Lunch comes next week.) Here’s what’s different and what’s not.

Then: Brown-wood booths and bar tables for rendezvous behind lowered blinds.
Now: A bright space of two-tops, bistro chairs and banquettes behind wraparound windows. (See the slideshow here.)

Then: Late-night beers and truffle fries with friends at the bar.
Now: A pastry case and Stumptown station to the bar’s left. For recovering from late-night beers and fries.

Then: The Hellman Burger, steak frites and Old Fashioneds for dinner.
Now: Fried-bologna sandwiches for breakfast. BLTs with house bacon at lunch. Moules-frites and half-pound burgers with brandy Old Fashioneds. Whenever.

Then: Solid place with a serious people-watching patio.
Now: Pursuant to Historic People-Watching Patio Code 2.33C, the patio remains people-watching-forward.

It’s a good code.