Editor’s Note: Today’s intro has been cut so you can hurry up and make a reservation at...

Dirty French, a sprawling French brasserie at the Ludlow from the gentlemen behind Carbone, Torrisi, ZZ’s Clam Bar and Parm. They fling open the doors on this bad boy Thursday.

Before you embark, here’s a short primer...

We’d say “date spot,” but...
... this is one of those places where a group might be better. Easier to take in the rollicking-conversation-in-a-wraparound-booth-amongst-the-eye-candy of it all. (See more pictures here.)

There’s an entire côte de boeuf experience.
It starts, as so many of the great meals do, with a ribeye. Once you’ve taken that down, you’ve got a char-grilled skewer with the fat cap. (You may know it as “the good stuff.”)

You do oyster quality control now.
Carbone’s got its tableside salad situation. Here, it’s the oysters (all East Coast) that’ll be brought over and submitted for your approval.

There’s a massive bird that’s not on the menu.
It’s ostrich. It’s enveloping you as you sit back in one of the place’s deep red or black banquettes.

You haven’t been enveloped until you’ve been enveloped by ostrich.