As Freud said, sometimes a cigar is just a cigar.

But, conspicuously, Herr Freud remained silent on the subject of seafood restaurants.

Related: hidden within River North’s Kinmont is now Ampersand, a stealthy new pop-up that’s about to unleash all manner of culinary experimentation upon you, taking reservations now.

Let’s see if we can sort this all out.

You know Kinmont—that newish spot from the Nellcôte/Old Town Social people. Lots of buzz. Lots of fish. Lots of bourbon. Well, apparently they were holding something back. Specifically, a tiny event space tucked away in the back. To enter: you’ll need an escort through the kitchen.

But first, you’ll need a ticket. So go online and scout the upcoming events featuring some kind-of-a-big-deal chefs doing demos, trying out recipes, previewing new restaurants and generally making sure you’re happy and well-fed.

Things can change quickly, though. One week you’re slurping ramen and imbibing sake with Mike Sheerin of Blackbird and Trenchermen fame. Another, you’re learning at the feet of an esteemed brewmaster about how to make sure your beer and chocolate palates are in sync.

You’ve been meaning to get that tested.