A good, simple delicatessen. There’s nothing like it.

Warm matzo ball soup. Knishes. Bagels and cream cheese. Sour pickles.

And let’s not forget: the crystal chandeliers. Always need those.

Feast your eyes on Dillman’s, a fancier version of a classic Jewish deli from that Brendan Sodikoff fellow (Gilt Bar, Au Cheval, Bavette’s), now open.

Think of this as Gilt Bar if it were reimagined as a delicatessen. Because there are flourishes like upholstered easy chairs in the corner. Not to mention a bar that whips up classic cocktails like a Brown Derby (bourbon, grapefruit, honey). But they also make their own bagels, cream cheese, yogurt and knishes. And the biggest matzo ball you’ll see for a while.

Which means one thing: this is the city’s first date-worthy delicatessen. But you could also show up here anytime, really. Maybe for a business dinner over prime ribeye. Or say you’ve just finished a killer workout at East Bank Club. You’ll walk across the street and grab a towering pastrami sandwich here for lunch.

It’s like a protein shake in sandwich form.