It's easy enough to find a four-star steak in this town—but harder to find a slab at a respectable low-key spot that won't sear half your mortgage payment.

Until now—Tony's Steakhouse wants to give it a shot, and it's now accepting reservations for its Friday debut on the Sunset Strip.

The main appeal of this candlelit den is its easygoing vibe (owner Tony Riviera's empire includes the similarly laid-back Caffe Primo, just a few feet away) and its mission to put a filet mignon, a starch and a vegetable on your plate for twenty-five bucks. (A night at Cut has many perks—but that's definitely not one of them.)

Once the patio's complete in a week or so, the large dining room will feel even larger since the dividing wall of windows opens all the way up—all the better for the live pianist's gentle melodies to merge with the looping bass from CW actors' leased convertibles thumping down the street. But if you want another barrier between you and the traffic, there's a communal chef's table in the central kitchen behind glass and translucent Italian amber onyx.

Which we think cost a bit more than twenty-five bucks.