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The City's Most Clandestine Restaurants
Stashed away between tourist traps and over-hyped dining rooms is a crop of restaurants that reward the intrepid with anything from Korean fried chicken to abalone tostadas. This crop of restaurants.
Hayes Valley
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Restaurant
You'll head into the Boba Guys' largest spot on Fillmore, but you won't be there for tea. Instead, head straight to Sunday Bird, the Korean Fried Chicken spot hidden behind a rolling garage door to the left of the tea shop. At their window, you'll order 24-hour brined, twice-fried chicken in whole or half form, along with sides like a honey butter "bao-scuit" and chicken fat chicharron.
Outer Sunset
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Food
In the westernmost reaches of the city, way out in the Outer Sunset, you'll often find a small yet determined crowd braving the fog and waiting for a table in a restaurant that has a strange resemblance to... a garage. Welcome to Toyose, a late-night Korean gem that's housed in, yes, a converted garage. The beer comes in plastic liter bottles; the fried chicken wings are legendary; and a wait is more or less guaranteed. It's well worth it, as you'll quickly realize once you're seated—preferably in a booth, that includes a doorbell to ring for service. Order the aforementioned fried chicken, a seafood pancake and one of their bubbling casseroles that includes soul-warming spicy broth and instant ramen noodles.
Nob Hill
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Food
Louie's Gen Gen Room may bill itself as a cocktail bar with food, but their menu—featuring absurdly cravable things like hamachi poke and a taleggio black truffle grilled cheese—is excellent enough to make it a restaurant in our hearts and minds. Hidden downstairs from always-packed big sister Liholiho Yacht Club, reservations-only Louie's reads like a mid-century island bar, with creative, delicious cocktails that could only be from the 21st century. Did we mention the smoke sturgeon-topped bone marrow butter waffle and the pigs in a blanket made with Liholiho's legendary house made SPAM? Right, you'll find those things here, too.
Pacific Heights
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Food
Put on your favorite outfit that doesn't include sunglasses (no, really) and head to the line formed at the titular red Dutch door of this tiny cafe for the most insane brunch of your life. While waiting, the owner will insist you hold a vintage doll and appraise your demeanor to make sure you are fun and friendly enough to be let in. And he absolutely hates sunglasses. Once inside, you'll notice a ton of eclectic and crazy decorations, including your personal table dildo, upon which you can play ring toss. The food is delicious and just as bawdy. Try the Brie Whore and wash it down with a F*ckmosa. Probably don't bring mom.
Hayes Valley
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Food
Consider your lunch game seriously upped thanks to Tacos Cala, a tiny taqueria tucked in the back of Gabriele Camara's most excellent Hayes Valley restaurant, Cala. You'll find the tacos on Hickory Street in a small, garage-like space attached to the restaurant proper—pliant, fresh tortillas, homemade salsas and daily changing meat and vegetarian guisados make for elevated, always interesting, Mexico City-style fare. The one never-changing (and must-try) taco is the Huevo, featuring a runny-yolked soft boiled egg.