Cheesemonger.

Now there’s a word you don’t throw around often enough either unironically or outside of Brooklyn.

Unless you’re at Appellation, that is. It’s a French-inspired restaurant and wine bar inside Pastoral’s new Andersonville outpost where the champagne is on tap and the chef is a former cheesemonger. (Here’s the slideshow and here’s the menu.)

It won’t open until later this week, but here’s what you can daydream about while you wait...

A leisurely lunch at Pastoral.
You walk in. On your left: a panoply of meats and cheeses like you’ve seen at other Pastoral locations. You order the Salumi Piccante sandwich, get some white wine mustard and laze about on a leather banquette in Appellation’s dining area. It’s nice to laze.

Dinner with friends at Appellation.
It starts with duck prosciutto, Bavarian blue cheese and milk-braised pork shoulder ragù. It ends with you procuring more prosciutto and more cheese from Pastoral to take home with you. Because you can do that here.

The champagne on tap at the bar.
Effervescent. Gentle golden hue. Cascading down the walls of your flute...

If there were ever a time to coin the phrase “champagne porn”...