Adieu, Pierrot Bistrot Français.

Bonjour Ma Maison, a new den of French delights replacing a long-standing bistro in Beacon Hill, opening Monday.

After 11 years, Pierrot’s really gone. But now Jacky Robert of Petit Robert fame is in the kitchen, and it’s a whole different game. So come take a ride in the then-and-now machine.

Then: A cozy, 40-seat corner bistro with white tablecloths, red walls and many, many posters of white-faced French clowns.
Now: The 40 seats and white tablecloths: still there. But the walls have gone from red to buttery-yellow, and the clowns have been replaced by hanging silver trays (the slideshow wants a word). Which are 110% less frightening than clowns.

Then: Duck à l’orange, steak tartare and French onion soup.
Now: Duck accompanied by kimchi duck confit in a pastry shell, country pâté and French onion soup (see the menu). Never change, French onion soup.

Then: Not brunch.
Now: A Saturday brunch with strong notes of foie gras cheeseburgers and lobster BLTs.

Then: A two-tiered dessert cart bearing gifts of chocolate mousse and crème brûlée.
Now: A two-tiered dessert cart bearing gifts of raspberry tart and peach cake, plus a selection of cheeses.

Let’s hear it for cheese.