They used to be relegated to basements.

Or stairwells. In the shadows.

Doing all the work. Accruing none of the glory.

But now is their moment to shine.

The kegs are coming to you.

Sort of.

All you have to do is show up at Hogwash, a sleek and intimate beer hall with sausages and tableside mini-kegs, open now.

Okay, so it’s a beer hall, sure, but it’s a lot better-looking than you might think for a place that makes us say “tableside mini-kegs.” (See? Look. Here’s the slideshow.)

In the front: honeycomb-looking plaster tiles and heavy communal tables with stools and benches.

In the back: a marble-paneled bar lined with clear, cavernous glasses.

Moving toward you and your friends: some combination of the 30 good brews hailing from Japan to Colorado, like Deschutes from Oregon and St. Bernardus Tripel from Belgium.

Wait, pause.

They’re not moving toward you yet.

First you have to decide whether you’ll be going pint, goblet or... keg. The keg will arrive in an ice bucket and serve about 15 pints.

Then you’ll be forced to move on to sausage decisions. Maple pork topped with fried duck egg. Lamb with blue cheese. Beef, cheddar and bacon.

Decisions not to be taken lightly.