Steak fatigue. It can happen. Especially where power lunches or celebratory downtown dinners are concerned.

Fortunately, it’s nothing that charred octopus, rabbit ziti and grapefruit beer can’t cure.

Here’s Pinea, a new southern European spot in the W hotel, now taking reservations for a Wednesday opening. (See the slideshow here.)

This used to be—yes—a steakhouse, so here’s what’s changing:

Then: Red meat by a New York celebrity chef.
Now: A menu by chef Barry Koslow (of DGS fame) that’s a little bit Sicily, a little bit Majorca, a little bit Provence. What this means: mushroom risotto with egg yolk, lamb-merguez burgers and Nutella-fondant cake with popcorn sorbet.

Then: A bar heavy on red wines and whiskeys.
Now: Sparkling wines, local beers and European-influenced cocktails like the Swiss Spritz (Cynar and the aforementioned grapefruit beer).

Then: A bright and airy (if a bit sterile) scene.
Now: Still bright. Still airy. But there’s new power booths, heavy curtains and some funky chandeliers. And for something a little more clandestine, there’s always the dark Root Cellar room downstairs.

No, they don’t have root beer.