Starting tomorrow, the Upper West Side is a better place.

Not because of any civic measures.

Or because of any kind of altruism or compassion.

But because of this...

Tessa, a rangy Mediterranean trysting spot on the UWS, opening tomorrow night.

Little background here: Tessa is the owner’s daughter. So that answers that. Your chef for the evening (and for the foreseeable future) is a French fellow who comes to you by way of Rosemary’s and Bobo. Point is, you’re in good hands.

The first thing you’ll notice here is those accordion security gates. The ceiling, the bar and the light fixtures are all made of these things. It’s... oddly sexy.

Anyway.

You need to get here before the rest of the neighborhood figures it out. Maybe you bring a date for the lobster civet (it comes nestled in spaccatelli) and grab one of the tables beside the full-wall wine rack, in the very back. Maybe you slide up to the bar on your own, spontaneously, and get acquainted with your new favorite pairing—a glass of Côte du Rhône and a burger that’s decided pancetta needs to be in its blend.

Burgers usually know what’s best for them.