There’s been some ugly talk lately about Chicago’s best days being behind it.

Don’t believe it.

This is the city that gave the world the Ferris wheel.

This is the city that gave the world Cracker Jack.

This is the city that gave the world a restaurant inspired by Ferris wheels and Cracker Jack.

Behold: Ferris & Jack, a bold celebration of Midwestern ingenuity—mostly in the form of stick-to-your-ribs comfort food—now soft-open in Streeterville’s MileNorth Hotel.

With mini sausage trios (Polish, Sheboygan and Chicago-style hot dog) and lake trout dinners, this joint isn’t afraid to tell you what you can do with your molecular gastronomy. But it’s Midwestern, so it’s just too darn polite.

This place isn’t big on borders—its reach extends into both the hotel lobby and a little sundry shop (selling Cracker Jack, of course). If you swing by in the morning, head to its coffee bar and grab an Eggzel (over easy egg on a pretzel croissant). Park yourself in a leather chesterfield and do a little web surfing. It’s okay. No one is going to check to see if you really are visiting from Cincinnati.

Incidentally, that coffee bar turns into more of a bar bar at night. You know, the type of place that has martinis like the Wrigley.

Made with vodka, not gum.