Ambition.

You have it. You demand it from those around you.

And that includes your margarita.

So welcome to Fogon, a new neighborhood Mexican-ish restaurant now open in Noble Square that has designs on global domination... at least as far as your empanadas are concerned.

First, let’s get back to those margaritas. When you walk into this space, immediately take a detour to the small, black granite bar in the back (the soaring windows in the dining room will understand the delay). Sure, yes. They have tequila, lime and salt versions. Perfectly acceptable. Yet, somehow, it’s the jicama key lime or raspberry blood orange margaritas that will get you in the mood for fusions yet to come.

So again, yes, you’ll find things like guac and chips, and ceviche on the dinner menu. And since the owner and chef started at the likes of Red Light, Gioco, MK and Marche, Fogon hones a certain cross-ethnic sensibility—not to mention the ability to create a handsome midweek date spot in the process.

You’ll find a watermelon salad with Greek feta and tequila vinaigrette. Taquitos that resemble Asian crab rolls, with a spicy mango sauce. Lobster empanadas with sun-dried tomato pesto. A prime rib eye with gorgonzola polenta and truffle oil.

Which is the salsa of France.